We are back from SRI LANKA
M, J & M. November 2005
Our flight was late into Colombo so it took AGES to drive into the city because of rush hour. Our guide had been waiting hours for us but was very sweet and helpful. We were hit by the incredible humidity, but the vehicle was air conditioned so we just sat back and relaxed.
Galle Face Hotel, Colombo
We were both delighted and disappointed in the hotel. Our rooms were very old and large, but not very nicely furnished and the bathrooms were extremely old fashioned. However, the terrace area was delightful and sitting out there having drinks, tea etc felt like we were definitely back in colonial times. The fish restaurant was also very good and we ate there twice. In fact, when returning to Colombo we would stay somewhere else but return to the Galle Face to enjoy the ambiance of the terrace. The afternoon tea is spectacular. They are updating the hotel gradually but the new wing into which most of the funds seem to have been poured has very small rooms and is unacceptably expensive.
Colombo is a noisy, traffic packed, smelly, busy Eastern city. It is exhilarating, frustrating and fascinating and definitely worth a visit – as long as you have a guide as good as ours! We explored under his expert eye and he even took us to the Cricket Club for a drink, which was lovely and quiet and an oasis on a hot and humid day – overhead fans and the crack of leather on willow.
Sigiriya Village
We liked this hotel. It has a magnificent view of Sigiriya Rock. Rooms were little cabins set in tropical gardens (we loved the monkeys which came out to say hello). The rooms were comfy and colourful and the staff friendly and helpful. Food was good and there was music during dinner.
Earl’s Regency, Kandy
This is a 5-star hotel and situated out of the actual city of Kandy. It was comfy and the rooms well appointed. We were slightly disappointed at the lack of dress code in the dining room, considering the sort of hotel it was – people coming into dinner in shabby shorts and dirty sandals. Sadly, this is the way things are going nowadays. We were pleased to say that these “scruffs” were not British but mainly German and Italian and also a lot of visitors from Pakistan (with dreadfully unruly children!)
Kandy is definitely worth a couple of days because it has plenty to see and do – including the Temple of the Tooth, a good Cultural Show, the Pinnawella Elephant Orphanage and Peradiniya Gardens (wonderful).
The Tea Factory, near Nuwara Eliya
This tea factory has been converted into a luxurious and unique hotel. We really loved it. Sitting on a hill surrounded by the tea bushes, it was an experience which surely cannot be duplicated anywhere in the world. The staff were delightful and we would go back here in a flash.
We enjoyed looking around the town of Nuwara Eliya and had an excellent lunch at the Hill Club. Everywhere we went we were made so welcome, although we were aware that our guide was expert at his task of making our holiday trouble free.
Bandarawella Hotel
This seemed interesting in the brochures, as it is one of the original colonial stopping-off places when travelling from “up country” to the “low country”. Colonial was, in this case, another way of saying “still the same as 50 years ago”. We did not like it one bit, it was old fashioned and unattractive. But, as always, the staff could not have been more helpful and charming. We would neither recommend the Bandarawella Hotel or return.
Yala Village. Yala Game Reserve
This was one of the highlights of the trip. The cabins are well appointed, comfy and spotlessly clean. The staff excellent – particularly the young man who looked after our rooms. In the evening we came back to some wonderful designs on our beds – elephants created in leaves and shells. We were a little unlucky with the weather as we had torrential rain some of the time so we did not see as much as we hoped. However, we did see quite a lot of game including elephant. One morning I went out on a bird walk from the hotel and in less than 2-hours saw 32 varieties of bird life. The location is lovely, with the beach nearby and natural vegetation all around; also a huge swimming pool. Food was good and we enjoyed the lookout at the top of the restaurant building.
Centuria Hotel, Embilipitiya
This hotel was a complete surprise. No-one seemed to know what it would be like, including our guide, so we anticipated it with some trepidation. The area where it is located is not on the normal tourist track and yet it was quite splendid. In the middle of nowhere, we went through large gates into a beautiful garden and there is the hotel on the edge of a vast lake. We did have the two best rooms in the hotel (huge and quite grand with big bathrooms and spectacular views). There is an ayurvedic centre (I had a very good foot massage) and a huge swimming pool. The dining room and bar were quite dark, but food and service were both good.
The reason for staying at this rather out of the way hotel was to visit the Baby Elephant Orphanage. This is state supported (along with charitable donations) and you can go free to watch the babies being fed at certain times every day. An absolutely wonderful experience. The babies are orphans rescued from the wild and raised at the orphanage until they are ready to be released back into their natural habitat. Wonderful work is being done here, yet it does not receive the publicity or funds that the better known Pinawella does (probably mainly due to the out of the way location ).
Neptune Hotel, Beruwela
This is a beach hotel, but also has an ayurvec centre. We spent a well needed few days here just enjoying the beach and the relaxation – including some very effective treatments at the ayurvedic centre. Although the rooms were a little shabby, they were large and comfy and had nice balconies with views of the swimming pool and beach. Once again, the staff were excellent – helpful and efficient. This is really just a beach hotel and, as such, is fine. The swimming pool is beautiful, and the beach directly accessible from the hotel. You do have the usual beach traders, which can be irritating, but being polite and firm usually works and they are not allowed into the hotel.
Brown’s Beach Hotel, Negumbo
This hotel is very convenient for the last stop before flying out (particularly with a very early morning flight). The beach at Negombo is huge and sandy and looks absolutely gorgeous. Not so the hotel, though. Our rooms were small and the bathrooms tiny. Access to the rooms was from the rear of the hotel, which was next to the road, and you can see straight into the sewage system (which smells). The food is good and we were treated with the customary courtesy by the staff but we did not rate this hotel at all highly. We met quite a few people who returned yearly from the UK – spending 2 weeks at this one hotel and never seeing more of the country. There is no doubt that is probably is good value if you are on a cheap package tour but to us it was very disappointing.
General
The roads tend to be quite windy, so travelling takes a long time. The scenery is constantly changing and stunning. We loved the country – it has so much to offer. We took away with us the fact that we were always treated with such courtesy and friendliness, the service was exemplary wherever we went – from small local restaurant at lunch time to large hotel. Our guide was wonderful – never intruded but was punctual, helpful and great company.
We were quite unlucky with the weather as there was a lot of rain – and it was RAIN! The tea areas were stunningly green. We saw quite a lot of the damage which had been wreaked by the Tsunami, as well as hearing some heart rending stories from people who had first hand experience of this dreadful time. The recovery is slow and the human toll unbelievable. We would encourage anyone thinking of a holiday in Sri Lanko to GO. Your support of one of their biggest industries (tourism) is the best thing to speed up the recovery – and it is no hardship because it is a fabulous and fascinating holiday for any age.
Lots more to see on the next visit!
